love421 personal blog: https://www.makedreamsir.xyz
Preface
The first thing I have to say here is that I bought this 3d printer by accident.
At first, I didn't know anything and looked it up on the Internet. Later, I saw a post on Baidu Tieba titled "The Complete Tutorial Process of Assembling a 3D Printer for 800 Yuan" , and I was deeply attracted by what it said. After reading it, I was especially fascinated by the printer with parallel arm structure. I thought this structure was super beautiful. Although I didn't know anything about printers at that time, I felt that this kind of printer was more beautiful. Later, I added the two groups involved in that post and found the legendary prince, but the crowdfunding of that post has ended, so there is no legal group purchase anymore. Then I searched it on Taobao, and it turned out. When it came to this structure, the cheap one was only about 1,000 yuan. I also thought about matching a set according to the list given by the prince, but I was scared at that time. I was afraid that I could not assemble it, and the money was not less spent, so I finally asked After Zhang Qing discussed it, I decided to buy a kit on Taobao and return to the group. Facts have proved that the original decision was not wrong, because even if you matched it and came back to group the money, not only would it not be less but also more, and the things you bought like that were scattered and you couldn't get invoices.
Then I'll talk about why I bought it so badly, because at that time, I saw the dazzling variety on Taobao, and the price was also varied. Because I don’t know how deep the water of this 3D printer is, and no one around me knows, so I decided to buy a brand with good after-sales service, so that I can solve the problems that I encounter, so I saw the vertical on Taobao The reputation of the Delta of VCube Technology is not bad, and it claims to be the Xiaomi of 3D printing. Their Delta had several packages at the time, and then I chose the pulley version + hot bed = 899 to save money. At that time, I wanted to buy the 1499 linear rail version of the PLUS+ hot bed. But after thinking about it, I gave up. The point is here. It didn't take long for the laboratory to send out 10,000+. At first I thought it would be more than 5,000. That's why I was so saving. If I knew that I would send 10,000+, I would buy the 1499 one. Then I bought this 899 and bought it. After more than 20 days, their home has a new model. The new model has a great feature and can be automatically leveled. This makes me feel that the one I bought is particularly hurt, and I can buy 1499+ automatic leveling later. Wow, avalanche! However, it is said that there will be an upgrade kit soon, and you can buy an automatic leveling kit separately.
Getting started with 3D printer hardware
Before that, you can go to Baidu's arduino to see this post "The
whole tutorial process of assembling a 3D printer for 800 yuan "
Next, let's take a look at desktop-level 3D printers, which are roughly divided into three types according to the principles used: FDM, DLP, and SLA. The basic principle is as follows:
(1) FDM: The full name is "fused deposition" technology. The basic principle is that it literally means that ABS, PLA and other wire materials are heated and melted by a heating device, and then squeezed out like toothpaste by extruding the head, piled up layer by layer, and finally formed.
(2) SLA: The full name is "stereolithography". The basic principle is that the laser beam outlines the shape of the first layer of the object on the surface of the liquid resin, and then the production platform drops a certain amount (between 0.05-0.025mm), and then the cured layer is immersed in the liquid resin, and so on. The resin used is photosensitive resin, which will form a solid state after being irradiated with a laser beam.
(3) DLP: The full name is "digital light projection" technology. The consumables used are the same as SLA, which are light-curable resins. What is the difference between that and SLA? Why is it called digital light projection? In fact, in terms of mechanical structure, the biggest difference between DLP and SLA is that DLP uses a projector's digital light source (have never used a projector? Buy one and try it, haha), and SLA uses a laser head. Because of this, DLP scans one piece, and SLA shaping can only rely on one laser point. Some DLP machines can also print a variety of materials, such as DLP200 tabletop can print a variety of materials, resin ABS acrylic.
Print size:
FDM machines are flexible and diverse in structure. There are XYZ frame structures, delta structures, and robotic arms. Therefore, the forming size can be made small or large. But the problem is also coming. Large-size FDM machines often suffer from poor stability and slow printing speed. However, due to the limitations of SLA and DLP on the forming principle, large-scale machines cannot be made for the time being. Of course, there will be better ones in the future. In theory, SLA can be made in infinite size like FDM, but the speed will be slow. SLA is also printed by moving the optical axis. What about DLP? If it is bigger, accuracy will be sacrificed, but SLA and FDM will not.
Molding accuracy:
The 3D printer has three axes, XYZ, to control the accuracy. The Z axis is the accuracy of the stepping motor, which is what we call the layer thickness. This accuracy is the same as FDM, DLP, and SLA, because all the stepping motors are on the market. The minimum can be 0.01MM. The difference is mainly in the accuracy of the X and Y axes. At present, in theory, the minimum DLP spot accuracy is only 0.1MM, the SLA is 0.2MM, and the FDM is 0.3MM. But in reality, SLA> DLP. So why is the accuracy of DLP not as high as SLA? It is because the light from DLP is fan-shaped light, which is scattered. SLA is that the laser is approximately a straight line, so the accuracy is better than DLP.
Machine price:
Generally speaking, FDM is cheaper than SLA and DLP, mostly in the range of 2,000 to 20,000. Of course, imported FDM machines are also very expensive, like Ultimaker and Makerbot, mostly above 20,000. SLA and DLP, because of their high precision, can be widely used in industrial applications, especially jewelers. Much more expensive than FDM machines. For example, FORM1, at around 30,000 yuan, the official price of Snow Leopard's DLP machine is 9,800. The DLP machines of the Jock brothers are considered to be quasi-industrial grade. The official price is 86,000. The DLP machines of other manufacturers on the market are generally more than 40,000.
Consumable price:
FDM machines are now more popular, and consumables are relatively cheap. One kilogram of ABS consumables is between 50 and 200 yuan (depending on the quality). SLA and DLP consumables are more expensive, about 400 yuan to 3,000 yuan per kilogram of light-curable resin.
In summary, desktop-level 3D printers:
Forming size: FDM> SLA ≈ DLP
Forming accuracy: SLA> DLP> FDM
Machine price: SLA> DLP> FDM
Consumables price: SLA ≈ DLP> FDM
If you don't understand the difference intuitively after reading the principle introduction, you can go to Youku to search for the demo screen of the relevant printer. After reading it, I believe that at least I can understand the difference between FDM and SLA. Then focus on the FDM printer. According to the structure of FDM, there are only a few types, i3, parallel arm, UM, MB and other types. Here, I just briefly introduce the difference between i3 and parallel arm:
The one on the left is the parallel arm structure, and the one on the right is the i3 structure. Let me briefly introduce the advantages and disadvantages of both:
i3 structure advantages:
1. The frame is relatively simple, simple gantry, which saves materials, so the price is relatively cheap, suitable for beginners.
2. Short-range wire feeding, can print soft body consumables—TPU.
Disadvantages of i3 structure:
1. The Y direction is the platform movement. Due to the relatively large weight of the platform, the inertia is naturally large during printing, which increases the load of the stepping motor and the timing belt, which will accelerate the wear of the timing belt; at the same time, the printing accuracy cannot be guaranteed when the printing is fast.
2. The double screw rod in the Z direction drives the extruder to move up and down. Because the accuracy of the screw rod cannot be completely consistent, after a long time printing, the two sides will not be flush, which will affect the printing effect.
3. The machine occupies a large area, and the platform moves in the Y-axis direction, so the required area is relatively large.
4. The nozzle module uses a single air duct, which can only be blown to one side of the printed model, and the other side cannot be cooled in time, which
greatly affects the printing quality.
Advantages of parallel arm:
1. Small footprint.
2. Parallel arm structure, simple frame, easy to customize the frame size when using aluminum profiles for DIY.
3. Its nozzles move flexibly, and it can effectively reduce wire drawing by setting the retracting and lifting nozzles during printing. Other structures cannot lift the nozzle flexibly.
4. Remote wire feeding, using E3D print head, light weight, faster printing speed.
5. E3D extruder has good heat dissipation performance and is not easy to be blocked.
Disadvantages of parallel arm:
1. As mentioned earlier, the footprint is small, but the internal space utilization of its printer is very low. The higher the machine, the lower the space utilization.
2. The biggest disadvantage of the parallel arm is that it is difficult to level. Because its platform is fixed, if there is no automatic leveling, the leveling can only be leveled by software or manually adjusting the offset parameters in the three directions of XYZ, which is particularly troublesome. .
3. Long-distance wire feeding, if it is drawn back frequently during printing, the pneumatic connector is easily damaged. Next, there are two types of FDM parallel-arm printers on the market, one is the pulley type, and the other is the linear rail version. Compared with the pulley version, the linear rail version has higher precision and less wear, but it is more expensive. Finally, to sum up, this 421 is FDM's trolley type parallel arm 3d printer.
Getting started with 3D printer software
For a person who is new to 3D printers, he is most annoyed by the information that is full of the sky. I don't know how to start. What I want to know most is what software I will use. Here I first give a set of solutions. To complete a work from scratch, it is probably necessary:
(1) Debugging software Printrun: It is used in machine leveling, refueling, etc. It is not necessary. Because the slicing software is necessary, and the slicing software we use integrates this part of the function, it can be replaced, but this software is more professional and personally used.
(2) Modeling software 3ds Max: It will be used when modeling and modifying models. This is a must for those who need to model by themselves. But for people who don't need to model themselves, this is optional.
(3) Slicing software Cura: It is used when the G code is obtained by slicing the model. This is a must for anyone. Of course, I said before that it can also be used to debug machines. By the way, the actual printing time is about 63% of the time taken by Cura slice calculation. For example, suppose there is a model that we use Cura slices to complete the calculation time that takes eleven hours, but in fact we only need about 7 hours to print this thing.
(4) Add support software Meshmixer and Simplify3d: they will be used when adding support to the model. These two can be said to be necessary, because we will inevitably encounter some models that need to be supported during our use. Some people may ask, why do you need two, isn't one just enough? Here are two differences: Meshmixer belongs to the category of modeling software, but it focuses on the modification of the model, especially the tree support can be added to the model automatically or manually. Simplify3d is part of the slicing software, but it can manually add linear support. In fact, most slicing software can selectively add support to the model, but the Cura we use cannot manually add support to the model, and the automatically added supports are all linear supports.
(5) Arduino flashing firmware: It will be used when flashing the firmware and adjusting the level of the machine, and it is also necessary.
3D printer steps
We need to print out a piece of work in our minds, and to realize it from scratch generally requires the following steps:
The first step I call it preparation work. Place the printer in a flat place. After placing it, you can gently shake it with your hands. Make sure that the printer does not shake, otherwise it will affect the printing accuracy of the printer. In addition, we must ensure that the power supply will not be cut off during the printing period, because this printer does not have the function of resuming printing. If there is an intermediate power failure, you can only give up your previous efforts and start over. Finally, it’s best to place the printer where it will not be easily touched by things, because during the printing process, if something hits the printer or a pulley on a certain axis, the belt will not be synchronized with the stepper motor. Cause the model to be misplaced.
In the second step we need to level the printer. This is the most important and the most troublesome. It is a nightmare for the novice Xiaobai. First of all, let’s talk about why leveling is necessary. We must ensure that the nozzle of the printer can start printing from the height of the printing platform, no more, no less just right. And also to ensure that the print platform is level, and will not cause the print head to be too high or too low at this point just in another place. If the material ejected too high cannot adhere to the printing platform, it will cause the material to hang in the air and printing will fail. If it is too low, the nozzle of the printer will hit the printing platform, which will damage the nozzle and printing platform at the slightest level, and damage the stepping motor. Follow the leveling tutorial in the information package given, and remember a principle is that it is better to be too high rather than a little bit low. If it is high, we can continue to adjust it. If it is low, it will easily damage the printer.
In the third step, we need to model, which requires 3d modeling software. 3d modeling software is dazzling, such as 3ds Max, 123D, SolidWorks, AutoCAD, 3D Builder, Blender, etc., not to mention every difference here. I put a 3ds Max2014 installation package in the data package. As for how to use it, you can open the link below to learn by yourself.
http://www.51zxw.net/list.aspx?cid=531
In the fourth step, we need to selectively add support for the model, which requires the use of supporting software. What we commonly use is Meshmixer to add tree support to the model and Simplify3d to add linear support to the model. I also put these two installation packages in the data package. As for the last question (when to choose to add linear support and when to choose to add Tree support and how to use them to add support to the model), you only need to watch a teaching video of Xiao Budian Open Laboratory on Youku.
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMTM3NjYzMzc3Ng==.html?spm=a2h0k.8191407.0.0&from=s1.8-1-1.2
Finally, I emphasize that this step is not necessary, because not every model needs to add support. As long as you read the explanation of the small open laboratory above, I believe you will no longer have this question.
In the fifth step, we need to turn the newly built model into G code for the printer to use, which requires a slicing software. Here, by the way, explain what slicing software is and why it is used. It also means literally, it is responsible for cutting our built model in layers, layering the built model in the Z axis direction according to the set parameters, and obtaining the G code for the printer to use. To put it in the vernacular, I get the coordinate values of countless points according to a model, and then the 3d printer sequentially executes the print heads to the corresponding coordinates according to the coordinate values. There are also many slicing software, such as Simplify3d, Cura, Rhino, etc. There is a Cura installation package in the data package. As for the use, you can read this self-study.
http://www.360doc.com/content/17/0331/15/51704_641714089.shtml
In the sixth step, we save the G code of the model in the SD card, and then insert it into the printer to print it offline. By the way, why not recommend online printing. Because the printer needs to work for a long time normally, online printing is affected by the computer, and it is difficult to guarantee that the slicing software will stop working for many reasons such as misoperation and no power in the computer for such a long time. And sometimes online printing will have some very inexplicable problems, I can't explain it myself, and I have checked on the Internet and have different opinions. Unless it can be done in a short time, online printing is strongly not recommended. Offline printing is king.
3D printer experience
1. Keep in mind the principle of leveling, rather high rather than low. As for how high the print head is to the printing platform, it really depends on experience. For novices, you only need to follow the steps step by step.
2. The most commonly used materials are PLA and ABS. Pla is generally slightly more expensive than ABS. ABS material is easy to warp, requires a hot bed, and the printing temperature is higher than pla, so I bought pla.
3. How to change the material: first heat the temperature of the print head to 210 degrees (material is pla), then let the extruder spin the filament, then after the print head is determined to have filaments, the material can be quickly drawn out, and finally replaced with a new one Material until the print head spit out new filament.
4. The printing platform is a glass plate with a diameter of 200mm. I put a frosted sticker on one side, so that the printed model can be in good contact and fixed with the platform, so as to avoid the printing failure due to the sliding of the model during the printing process. But this also brings a very serious problem. It is difficult to remove the model when the print contact area is relatively large or the model is not very accurate due to the printer leveling. Therefore, you can choose to print on the glass surface when printing a model with a larger contact area with the printing platform, but a layer of white latex should be applied to the glass surface before printing, so as to reduce the possibility of model movement. One advantage of this is that you can directly take the glass plate and soak it with water after printing and picking up. The white latex will become soft once soaked, and the model can be taken off intact by just gently breaking it. In summary, when the bottom surface of the printed model has a small contact area with the printing platform, we choose to print on the side with sandpaper. When the bottom surface of the printed model has a large contact area with the printing platform, we choose to print with white Latex printing on the glass surface.
5. When do I need a heated bed? It is used when printing abs material. When the model is difficult to pick up, it can be heated by a hot bed and then tilted with a blade.
6.There are several reasons for model misalignment:
(1) Is the pulley too tight or too loose
(2) Is the belt too loose or too tight
(3) Is the model moved relative to the printing platform?
7. The most prone to failure of the printing model is when the print head has just been unloaded, that is, when the printer has just started printing. There are many reasons for printing failure in this time period:
(1) Due to thermal expansion and contraction, although the extruder does not start to work during this time, the material in the effector throat will expand during the warm-up period of the print head, causing the print head to start spinning, and this part of the silk will It has been hanging under the print head, and the whereabouts of this part of the silk is unpredictable when the print head is just unloaded.
(2) Because the leveling requirements are not up to standard, either high or low. If the print head is too high, the spit out material cannot adhere to the printing platform and cause printing failure. If the print head is too low and cannot spin normally, the extruder will be squeaky, even if the print head directly hits the printing platform, the print head will definitely be blocked for a long time. To sum up, it is very important to unload the material in the early stage when printing the model. Make sure that the bottom of the model adheres well to the printing platform before leaving.
9. Make sure that the nozzle and the printing platform are at a certain distance during the heating of the print head. If the nozzle is too close to the printing platform, the temperature of the nozzle is too high and it is easy to burn the matte sticker and cause pits.
10. If you are prompted to upload failed when flashing the firmware, 99% of the reason is that your port is occupied.
11. If the contact area between the bottom of the printing model and the printing platform is small, you can choose to add adhesion at the bottom of the model in Cura. For the specific method, please see the Cura usage diagram above.
12.3D printing materials are easy to be damp. If it is opened, it must be stored in a dry place, preferably wrapped in plastic for storage. Once damp, there will be a variety of printing failures such as wire breakage and printing distortion during the printing process of the 3D printer.
13. The extruder is divided into short-range and long-range, i3 is short-range, and our parallel arm uses V5 long-range. If you need to replace the extruder in the future, you must pay attention to the V5 long-range when you buy it. Cheng is okay, but don't buy a short-range V6.
14. If the head is blocked, please raise the effector, and then heat the print head to 240 degrees separately, and feed the material forward by hand until it is spit out. If the above method does not work, you can only disassemble the throat and nozzle, and then show the remaining material, then reinstall it and try to see if it can spin normally. If the throat or nozzle cannot be removed, it can only be replaced with a new one.
15. When printing offline, the model must be saved in the SD card in .gcode format, and the file name cannot be Chinese.
16. Be sure to set the printer to operate after each command before entering it, that is, enter G28 first, and then wait for the printer to be classified, then enter the command you want to operate.
17. In this model sharing website , you must use English when you search for the model you want. Chinese cannot successfully search for the model you want.
18. The layer thickness parameter setting of the slicing software is directly related to the fineness of the printed model, usually 0.2mm can be selected. If the requirements for this model are high or the slope of the printed model is approaching horizontal in some places, you can set it to 0.1mm or even 0.05mm, but this will also greatly increase the printing time.